Bali Bites: A Guide to Savory Adventures for Travelers with Food Allergies
GLUTEN-FREE, DAIRY-FREE, LACTOSE-FREE, EGG-FREE, NUT FREE – GOING ON A HOLIDAY, WHAT CAN I EAT?
Ever found yourself on a long-haul flight, diligently ticking dietary restriction boxes, only to be served fruit for every meal? Many of us have been there. Fortunately, in Bali, where an abundance of fruit awaits, you might be in for a pleasant surprise! All jokes aside, you've likely compiled a list of safe foods for your flight. But what about the rest of your holiday?
Vacations are meant to free you from cooking, meal planning, and dish duty. The idea is to indulge in the array of restaurants available, right? Well, not for those with allergies. Allergies can range from causing an upset stomach to being life-threatening. Planning meals in a foreign country with language barriers can be stressful. After all, holidays are meant to be stress-free!
So, what can you eat on your Bali holiday?
A practical strategy for managing dietary restrictions in Bali is printing laminated cards with lists of foods you can and cannot eat in Indonesian. These cards are particularly effective in fancier restaurants or places recommended by friends that are known to accommodate specific dietary needs. They come in handy, especially in resorts or more Westernized establishments.
However, it's essential to narrow down the list to include ingredients commonly found in Bali. Some items on generic lists may not even be present in local cuisine. By tailoring the information, you enhance the effectiveness of these cards, ensuring they serve as valuable communication tools between you and the kitchen staff.
What if you want to try the local food?
In Bali, exploring local delicacies may lead you to kitchens where the cooks, especially those over 30, may have limited literacy, especially among women. Some may have basic reading skills, and translation might not fully convey your dietary needs.
Allergies to food are not as commonly diagnosed here as in the Western world. Doctors often recommend eliminating specific foods, like eggs, to observe changes. As locals traditionally consume less wheat and dairy, allergies to these are less prevalent. In our village, if a child's rash persists after a week of eliminating a suspected food, consulting a Balian (Natural Healer) is the next step to identify potential spiritual factors.
Sampling local food from experienced cooks can offer a delightful culinary experience, but understanding the ingredients poses a challenge. To navigate this, start by exploring common local dishes listed on menus in tourist-friendly places.
Let’s pop down to a local Indonesian Warung
In Bali, it can be challenging to find a Warung exclusively serving Balinese food. Instead, you'll encounter a mix of Indonesian dishes from various regions, influenced by the owner's origin. Some places might even feature options with a Western touch on the menu.
A Warung typically refers to a small restaurant or a modest setup at the front of a house. The cooks, often family members like mum, dad, or Grandma, usually lack formal culinary training. Instead, they rely on cooking methods passed down from generation to generation, preserving the authenticity of traditional recipes learned in childhood.
Let’s see what’s on the menu
The menu in Bali often features familiar dishes, especially once you've spent a few days exploring the local cuisine. Some staples include Nasi Goreng (fried rice), Mie Goreng (fried noodles), Kentang Goreng (fried potatoes), Bihun Goreng (fried vermicelli), Ayam Goreng (fried chicken), Ikan Goreng (fried fish), Sayer Goreng (fried vegetables), Tempe Goreng (fried tempeh), Tahu Goreng (fried tofu), and Pisang Goreng (fried banana).
Despite the frequent use of the term "Goreng," which means fried, not everyone in Bali is overweight. Interestingly, many dishes labeled as "fried" are not deep-fried but are prepared using a wok. This cooking method allows for the use of less oil, contributing to a healthier approach to frying and explaining the local population's ability to maintain a balanced diet.
In Bali, unlike Thailand, the commonly used cooking oil is not peanut oil; it's typically a cost-effective, high-cholesterol vegetable oil. However, in areas abundant with coconuts, some kitchens still opt for coconut oil. The choice between coconut and vegetable oil depends on the local availability and affordability of coconuts.
Notably, unlike the practice in cheap Western takeaways, the oil used in Bali is generally not reused, except in street carts where it might be reheated multiple times. In contrast, Grandma cooking in a Warung at the back will use a modest amount of oil for her various 'Goreng' dishes, minimizing the quantity available for reuse.
Let’s translate some foods
Nasi – Rice (Nasih Puth – Plain White Rice)
Mie – Wheat Noodles
Kentang – Potato
Bihun - Rice Noodles
Ayam – Chicken
Ikan – Fish
Sayer – vegetables
Pisang – Banana
Telur - Egg
Tempe – Tempeh
hen it comes to Tofu in Indonesia, don't expect the spongy, tasteless version you might have encountered in your home country. Indonesian Tofu, or Tahu, offers a distinct and flavorful experience that's a far cry from the typical tofu stereotype. Make sure to try it here for an authentic taste.
For Tempe and Tofu Goreng, it's advisable to check whether they are coated in flour. While the Balinese usually don't use flour coating, some Indonesian preparations may include it. Some small Indonesian food carts offer delicious snacks with both Tempe and Tofu, but they might be coated in flour. Tempe holds a significant place in Balinese staples, comparable to rice, and can be prepared in various ways, including marinating in sweet soy sauce. Ensure it's plain if that's your preference.
EGGS
When ordering local rice dishes like Mie Goreng or Nasi Goreng, be cautious when asking for no egg. Simply requesting no egg may result in the removal of the visible egg, but the dish might still contain egg ingredients. To ensure an egg-free dish, specifically ask for "Tanpa Telur" – without egg.
If you want to confirm whether a dish has egg, you can ask, "Ada Telur?" meaning "Is there egg?" If the answer is yes, you can then specify "Tidak mau Telur" – I don't want egg. However, keep in mind that some traditional preparations, especially those made by Grandma, may include egg, and altering the recipe might not be possible.
For those allergic to eggs, sticking to Western menus is a safer option, as there are plenty of choices available without egg. In Bali, you can find a variety of Western foods similar to those back home, and restaurants typically adhere to the specified ingredients in their recipes.
MILK/ DAIRY
If you have a dairy allergy, Bali is a favorable destination as traditional Balinese main dishes typically don't use any dairy or milk. Even Balinese pancakes in the village do not contain milk, offering a delicious dairy-free option that guests often praise as the best in Bali.
While coconut milk is a prominent ingredient in Balinese and Indonesian cooking, it's not used as a substitute for dairy but rather contributes to the dish's flavor. Traditional desserts in Indonesia may use cow's milk, but they are not as common.
For those seeking alternatives, soy milk is available in supermarkets in tourist areas, although it often contains added sugar. Additionally, high-end supermarkets with imported foods may offer almond milk, but it comes with a higher price tag.
NUTS
Peanuts play a significant role in Balinese savory dishes, often served on the side. In local areas, peanuts are commonly grown, unlike cashews or other nuts, which tend to be expensive. If you have a peanut allergy, it's crucial to be aware that the word for peanut is also used for beans in the local language. To communicate your allergy clearly, consider showing photos of Indonesian peanuts on your phone with the words "Aku Makan, Aku Akan Mati" (I eat, I will die!) or "Saya Makan, Saya Akan Mati" (I eat, I will die!). Being direct and polite is essential to convey the severity of the allergy.
In small local kitchens, even if the staff assures you there are no peanuts, it's challenging to guarantee the absence of traces, especially in severe cases of allergy. Exercise caution and communicate your needs clearly.
In higher-end establishments, you may encounter dishes with finely sliced toasted almonds or desserts made with almond meal. Other nuts can be more expensive, so in upscale places, bakeries, or restaurants, it's advisable to check and inquire about the presence of nuts, and staff at such establishments are more likely to provide accurate information.
GLUTEN
While Bali has a few places in tourist areas that offer gluten-free bread, it tends to be more expensive compared to wheat bread available locally. Balinese wheat bread has a distinct sweetness, and there's also Pandan Bread, which is green in color, resembling a pack of dish sponges.
When dining at a Warung, the primary considerations for gluten sensitivity are the type of noodles and the sauce used. It's crucial to inquire about the ingredients in the noodle dishes and sauces to ensure they are gluten-free. Clear communication with the staff about dietary restrictions is essential to have a safe and enjoyable dining experience.
Which sauce are you looking out for? One of the sauces to be cautious about is "Kecap Manis," a sweet soy sauce that serves as the base for many local dishes. While the traditional version contains gluten, there are gluten-free brands available in all supermarkets, such as the brand "BANGO." You can check with the kitchen about the sauce they use, and if you have your own gluten-free sauce, you can bring small sachets and request them to use that.
Communicating your dietary needs, especially to someone like Grandma in a Warung, may require a different approach than handing over a card with information. Using simple and direct phrases can be more effective, and it's advisable to be prepared with specific phrases in Indonesian to convey your request clearly.
Navigating dietary preferences in a local Warung, especially in a bustling environment with limited English communication, requires a combination of miming, head-nodding, smiling, and above all, patience. If you bring your own gluten-free sauce and want it used in a specific dish, the challenge lies in ensuring that the kitchen understands your request.
When ordering a dish like Bihun Goreng (rice noodles with vegetables) in a busy local Warung, where English may not be widely spoken, simply showing the sauce to the waiter and expressing your desire for it to be used in your meal can be helpful. Keep your communication simple, use gestures, and make sure to convey your request when the venue and staff are not too busy. It's essential to be proactive in checking with the kitchen to ensure your dietary preferences are accommodated.
When communicating your dietary preferences in a local Warung, use polite expressions and keep it simple. Here's a phrase you can use:
"Permisi, Boleh saya minta Bihun Goreng, Boleh saya ganti saus. Saya alergi Kecap Manis Biasa, saya tidak alergi Kecap Manis Bango."
Translation: "Excuse me, may I please order Bihun Goreng and change the sauce? I am allergic to regular Kecap Manis, but I am not allergic to Kecap Manis Bango."
Pronunciation guide:
Permisi: "Per-mee-see"
Boleh saya minta Bihun Goreng: "Boh-leh sah-yah min-tah Bee-hoon Gor-eng"
Boleh saya ganti saus: "Boh-leh sah-yah gan-tee sa-oos"
Saya alergi Kecap Manis Biasa: "Sah-yah ah-lehr-gee Keh-chap Mah-nees Bee-ah-sah"
Saya tidak alergi Kecap Manis Bango: "Sah-yah tee-dahk ah-lehr-gee Keh-chap Mah-nees Bahn-go"
If pronunciation is challenging, you can write down the phrases and show them to the staff. Additionally, consider ordering simpler dishes like Kentang Goreng (French fries), Ikan Goreng (Fried fish), or Ikan Bakar (Grilled fish).
If you prefer a simpler version for writing down your dietary preferences in a local Warung, you can use the following phrases:
"Boleh saya minta makan, saya mau ganti saus." Translation: "May I please order food, and I'd like to change the sauce."
"Saya alergi Kecap Manis Biasa, saya tidak alergi Kecap Manis Bango." Translation: "I am allergic to regular sweet soy sauce, but I am not allergic to Kecap Manis Bango."
"Boleh Saya Ganti Saus? Saya ada Saus Bango untuk dapur, saya bawa sendiri." Translation: "May I change the sauce? I have Kecap Manis Bango for the kitchen; I brought it myself."
Feel free to use this sauce exchange method for ordering Nasi Goreng as well, as it typically contains Kecap Manis and Kecap Asin. If you want them to leave out the sauces altogether, keep a close eye on the preparation, as Grandma might add a little for flavor.
I don’t want that
In Indonesian, the word for "without" is "Tanpa," rather than using a direct "No." You can use "Tanpa" repeatedly, but it's essential to understand that the commitment to delicious food might mean the chef won't compromise on their signature flavors just to accommodate dietary preferences. If you wish to avoid a particular component, consider opting for a different dish instead of requesting changes to the sauces.
For instance, if you prefer your coffee without sugar, you can politely say "Tanpa Gula." Avoid using "Tidak Gula" (No sugar) as it may come across as rude. The cultural norm is to ask for "without" rather than a straightforward "No."
Polos is another word you may wish to learn, it means plain, so if you want to order cooked vegetables, which are called Sayur Goreng, then you would ask for “Sayur Goreng, polos, tanpa saus”…..and hope you get plain.
Identifying ingredients
When it comes to identifying ingredients in most dishes, you can generally rely on your ability to recognize them. However, navigating a supermarket and checking ingredients might present challenges. Some ingredients may be labeled differently, adding to potential confusion for locals. If they seem perplexed, don't be discouraged or frustrated—it's part of the learning process for both you and them. Patience and a willingness to understand each other's perspectives will go a long way in ensuring effective communication.
Wheat Flour - Tepung Terigu, or it may be written as Gandum Tepung
Rye – Gandum Hitam
Rye flour – Tepung Hitam
Oats – Gandum or Haver, or Oats
Oatmeal - Haver or Tepung haver or bubur haver
Oat flour – Tepung Gandum
Gula – sugar
Telur -- Egg
Susu – milk
Susu bubuk – milk powder
Understanding Kacang Varieties in Indonesian Cuisine
While "Kacang" typically denotes peanuts, the nuances of Indonesian cuisine introduce diverse interpretations. For instance:
Kacang Mete: Cashews
Kacang Polong: Beans (which can refer to green or mung beans)
Kacang Hijau: Green beans (also interchangeable with mung beans)
Kacang Buncis: String beans (occasionally indicating kidney or green beans)
Kacang Putih: White beans
Kacang Tanah: Peanuts
Kacang Merah: Red beans
Merely stating a peanut allergy may lead locals to associate it with various nuts and beans. The term "Kacang Kacangan" covers nuts and may also extend to include lentils.
Concerns about barley, polenta, or couscous are less prevalent, but upscale establishments catering to tourists are well-versed in addressing Coeliac Disease. Most tourist-oriented restaurants are receptive to discussing dietary needs; approach the conversation with patience and gratitude to seamlessly align with local culture.
Exploring Local Snacks
Indonesia boasts a delightful array of snacks, tempting even the most discerning palates. When it comes to dietary concerns like wheat flour or peanuts, communication might pose a challenge, and assumptions are best avoided unless you're certain.
In the past, many snacks were crafted sans wheat flour due to its limited availability, but contemporary variations may include it. Exercise caution unless you're absolutely certain about the ingredients.
For those with gluten sensitivities, the delectable Onde Onde, Sesame Balls, is a must-try. Bursting with mung bean paste, it's a treat to savor. A quick tip: if you encounter the term "Kacang," it refers to mung beans, not peanuts, ensuring a safe and enjoyable snacking experience.
Not Receiving What You Ordered – The Dying Stage
In this cultural setting, expressing dissatisfaction with your order isn't the norm; it's a realm where complaints are alien. Grandma's culinary efforts are driven by the desire for you to relish a flavorful meal, not to subject you to blandness. Rest assured, her cooking hasn't claimed any casualties before.
Creating a fuss because your meal arrived with an unexpected sauce or suspecting hidden peanuts in the kitchen, despite Grandma's reassuring words, will likely be met with a blank stare or, at best, an uncomfortable giggle.
Complaining loudly and raising your voice is simply not in line with the local culture. So, if you find yourself in a dire situation on the floor of a Warung, and your family is urgently seeking assistance, don't anticipate Grandma rushing out to apologize. In her perspective, she bears no responsibility for your predicament. If she's Balinese, she might even keep a distance, attributing your distress to a perceived demonic presence.
The Pulp Fiction Stage
In the realm of unexpected scenarios, having an extra EpiPen proves to be more crucial than you might think. Picture this: a groom, meticulous about a shellfish-free wedding, neglects to bring an EpiPen. Wedding night turns into a hospital stay, and the bride unexpectedly channels her inner Pulp Fiction scene. The best man, armed with rings but lacking an EpiPen, finds himself in a tight spot.
Imagine friends or family needing to administer the shot in a relaxed or inebriated state. It's wise to brief your travel companions on EpiPen administration, just in case they mistake themselves for the patient or harbor secret aspirations of reenacting a Pulp Fiction scene, much to the amusement of onlookers. Disclaimer: Not medical advice—consult your doctor for accurate allergy-related medication information.
Navigating dietary restrictions in Bali can present unique challenges, but with a bit of preparation and understanding, you can savor the rich flavors of Indonesian cuisine without compromising your health. From communicating your dietary needs with patience to exploring local markets for safe food options, Bali offers a gastronomic adventure for everyone. Embrace the vibrant local culture, enjoy the breathtaking landscapes, and savor the diverse culinary delights while keeping your well-being in mind. Remember, with a dash of flexibility and a sprinkle of local knowledge, your culinary journey in Bali can be both delicious and memorable. Bon appétit!